Yu. Yu. Yurovsky*, O. B. Kudinov
Marine Hydrophysical Institute of RAS, Sevastopol, Russia
* e-mail: y.yurovsky@mhi-ras.ru
Abstract
The paper presents prototype wave buoy loggers designed to collect raw data from a built-in inertial motion unit without transmitting the data to the user. These buoys require maintenance but have a significantly simpler design and much lower cost compared to unattended analogs, making them particularly useful for various coastal studies. The study aims to demonstrate that measuring wave parameters in field conditions with acceptable accuracy is achievable without loss of data quality. The buoys were tested in a field experiment at the Black Sea Hydrophysical Sub-Satellite Polygon of Marine Hydrophysical Institute, Russian Academy of Sciences. Reference measurements were obtained using wire wave gauges installed on the Stationary Oceanographic Platform (44.393047°N, 33.984596°E). Three identical buoys were deployed near the platform using different mooring configurations: a heavy anchor with an elastic insert (rubber cord), a heavy anchor without an elastic insert, and a buoy suspended directly from the platform without an anchor. Continuous measurements were conducted over seven days, during which significant wave height varied from 0.2 to 1 m, and wind speeds ranged from 0 to 15 m/s, coming from easterly, westerly, and northerly directions. Under these conditions, the root-mean-square error in estimating significant wave height was no more than 5–6 cm (both with and without the rubber cord), with the linear regression coefficient deviating from 1 by less than 5%. The root-mean-square errors for the spectral peak wave period and direction were 0.37–0.62 s and 50–65°, respectively. These errors are comparable to the resolution of the applied methods and the natural statistical variability of wave parameter estimates.
Keywords
buoy, wave gauge, inertial measurements, wind waves, wave parameters, oceanographic platform, field experiment
Acknowledgments
The work was funded by the Russian Scientific Foundation grant 24-27-00153 “Measuring waves with small buoys: methods, validation, prospects of miniaturization”.
For citation
Yurovsky, Yu.Yu. and Kudinov, O.B., 2025. Wave Buoy-Logger for Coastal Studies. Ecological Safety of Coastal and Shelf Zones of Sea, (3), pp. 115–127.
References
- Kuznetsov, S. and Saprykina, Y., 2021. Nonlinear Wave Transformation in Coastal Zone: Free and Bound Waves. Fluids, 6(10), 347. https://doi.org/10.3390/fluids6100347
- Brown, A.C. and Paasch, R.K., 2021. The Accelerations of a Wave Measurement Buoy Impacted by Breaking Waves in the Surf Zone. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 9(2), 214. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9020214
- Masson, D., 1996. A Case Study of Wave-Current Interaction in a Strong Tidal Current. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 26(3), pp. 359–372. https://doi.org/10.1175/1520-0485(1996)026%3C0359:ACSOWI%3E2.0.CO;2
- Goryachkin, Y.N., Udovik, V.F. and Kharitonova, L.V., 2010. Estimations of the Parameters of the Flux of Sediments near the West Coast of the Bakal’skaya Spit Under the Conditions of Heavy Storms in 2007. Physical Oceanography, 20(5), pp. 356–365. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11110-011-9091-9
- Saprykina, Y.V., Samiksha, S.V. and Kuznetsov, S.Yu., 2021. Wave Climate Variability and Occurrence of Mudbanks Along the Southwest Coast of India. Frontiers in Marine Science, 8, 671379. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2021.671379
- Andreeva, N., Saprykina, Y., Valchev, N., Eftimova, P. and Kuznetsov, S., 2021. Influence of Wave Climate on Intra and Inter-Annual Nearshore Bar Dynamics for a Sandy Beach. Geosciences, 11(5), 206. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences11050206
- Goryachkin, Y.N. and Kosyan, R.D., 2020. Formation of a New Island of the Coast of Crimea. Oceanology, 60(2), pp. 286–292. https://doi.org/10.1134/S0001437020020034
- Zhou, Y., Feng, X., Liu, M. and Wang, W., 2023. Influence of Beach Erosion during Wave Action in Designed Artificial Sandy Beach Using XBeach Model: Profiles and Shoreline. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 11(5), 984. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11050984
- Shimura, T., Mori, N., Baba, Y. and Miyashita, T. Ocean Surface Wind Estimation from Waves Based on Small GPS Buoy Observations in a Bay and the Open Ocean. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 127(9), e2022JC018786. https://doi.org/10.1029/2022jc018786
- Divinsky, B.V. and Kuklev, S.B., 2022. Experiment of Wind Wave Parameter Research on the Black Sea Shelf. Oceanology, 62(1), pp. 14–19. https://doi.org/10.31857/S003015742201004X
- Rainville, E., Thomson, J., Moulton, M. and Derakhti, M., 2023. Measurements of Nearshore Ocean-Surface Kinematics Through Coherent Arrays of Free-Drifting Buoys. Earth System Science Data, 15(11), pp. 5135–5151. https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-15-5135-2023
- Kinsela, M.A., Bradley, D.M., Ingleton, T.C., Doyle, T.B., Sutherland, M.D., Doszpot, N.E., Miller, J.J., Holtznagel, S.F. [et al.], 2024. Nearshore Wave Buoy Data from Southeastern Australia for Coastal Research and Management. Scientific Data, 11(1), 190. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41597-023-02865-x
- Veras Guimarães, P., Ardhuin, F., Sutherland, P., Accensi, M., Hamon, M., Pérignon, Y., Thomson, J., Benetazzo, A. and Ferrant, P., 2018. A Surface Kinematics Buoy (SKIB) for Wave-Current Interaction Studies. Ocean Science, 14(6), pp. 1449–1460. https://doi.org/10.5194/os-14-1449-2018
- Yurovsky, Y.Yu. and Dulov, V.A., 2020. MEMS-Based Wave Buoy: Towards Short Wind-Wave Sensing. Ocean Engineering, 217, 108043. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2020.108043
- Rabault, J., Nose, T., Hope, G., Müller, M., Breivik, Ø., Voermans, J., Hole, L. R., Bohlinger, P., Waseda [et al.], 2022. OpenMetBuoy-v2021: An Easy-to-Build, Affordable, Customizable, Open-Source Instrument for Oceanographic Measurements of Drift and Waves in Sea Ice and the Open Ocean. Geosciences, 12(3), 110. https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences12030110
- Feddersen, F., Amador, A., Pick, K., Vizuet, A., Quinn, K., Wolfinger, E., MacMahan, J.H. and Fincham, A., 2024. The Wavedrifter: A Low-Cost IMU-Based Lagrangian Drifter to Observe Steepening and Overturning of Surface Gravity Waves and the Transition to Turbulence. Coastal Engineering Journal, 66(1), pp. 44–57. https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2238949
- Joosten, H., 2006. Directional Wave Buoys and their Elastic Mooring. International Ocean Systems, 10(4), pp. 18–21.
- Yurovsky, Yu.Yu. and Dulov, V.A., 2017. Compact Low-Cost Arduino-Based Buoy for Sea Surface Wave Measurements. In: IEEE, 2017. Proceedings of Progress in Electromagnetic Research Symposium – Fall (PIERS – FALL), 19–22 November 2017. Singapore: IEEE, pp. 2315–2322. https://doi.org/10.1109/PIERS-FALL.2017.8293523
- Bondur, V.G., Dulov, V.A., Murynin, A.B. and Yurivsky, Yu.Yu., 2016. Studying Marine Wave Spectra in a Wide Range of Wavelengths Using Satellite and In Situ Data. Issledovanie Zemli iz Kosmosa, (1–2), pp. 7–24. https://doi.org/10.7868/S0205961416010048
- Smolov, V.E. and Rozvadovskiy, A.F., 2020. Application of the Arduino Platform for Recording Wind Waves. Physical Oceanography, 27(4), pp. 430–441. doi:10.22449/1573-160X-2020-4-430-441
- Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Cartwright, D.E. and Smith, N.D., 1961. Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Sea Waves Using the Motions of a Floating Buoy. In: NAS, 1961. Ocean Wave Spectra: Proceedings of a Conference, Easton, Maryland, May 1–4, 1961. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice-Hall, pp. 111–132.
- Ashton, I.G.C. and Johanning, L., 2015. On Errors in Low Frequency Wave Measurements from Wave Buoys. Ocean Engineering, 95, pp. 11–22. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2014.11.033
- Stewart, R.H., 1977. A Discus-Hulled Wave Measuring Buoy. Ocean Engineering, 4(2), pp. 101–107. https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(77)90013-0